CLUB LT -1987, 1988

Club LT
by Tom Sietsema
Feb 19, 1987

529 14th St. NW (in National Place) 347-1138 Hours: Monday through Friday 7:30 a.m. to 10 p.m., Saturday 8 a.m. to 7 p.m., Sunday 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. Prices: Appetizers 49 cents to $3.75; sandwiches, salads and entrees $2.25-$9.95. Cards: American Express, Diners Club, MasterCard, Visa.

Club LT-the upscale offspring of the ubiquitous green-roofed hamburger houses-is unlike any Little Tavern you’ve seen around town.

It’s bigger. It’s splashier. And it’s got hamburgers worthy of competing with Washington’s best.

Fans of the 49-cent, two-bite Little Tavern burger needn’t worry. The tiny trademark sandwich is still on the menu (listed, appropriately, under appetizers).

The signature chrome and tile decor, on the other hand, has been replaced here with a blaze of colors, mirrors, neon and cafe-style appointments, including a handsome bar. There are silk flower arrangements resting on polished wood ledges, as well as dark wood pillars and brass railings, to lend a touch of warmth. The rambling dining room, which combines cozy booths and closely spaced tables, spills out onto the terrace of The Shops at National Place.

When ordering, keep this restaurant’s diner roots in mind. The mammoth charbroiled hamburgers, served on toasted buns, are fine, smoky ones, and perhaps best savored with Club LT’s intensely rich and filling malts and milk shakes. (Only the commercial whipped topping detracts from the nostalgia.) The sturdy french fries are on the greasy side, but of good flavor. And for dessert there are such mainstays as bread pudding, an appropriate albeit heavy finish, plus rice pudding and apple pie.

Club LT serves a rib-sticking breakfast throughout the day. Don’t miss the lacy, crisp waffles, topped with a surfeit of whipped butter and prettily accented with a fanned strawberry.

Where would a diner be without its blue-plate specials of hot roast beef, grilled ham and meat loaf? Though a bit too sweet for my taste, the chili, garnished with raw onion and a dull layer of cheese, was a warming and sinus-clearing meal.

Sandwiches round out the menu: One of the best is the herbed steak sandwich, savory slices of flank steak seasoned with parmesan cheese and stuffed in a soft twist roll. Curiously, the turkey and bacon club is described on the menu as made “the ole fashioned way.” What I got on my plate, however, was nothing more special than that offered by many a sandwich shop. For the kids there is a peanut butter and jelly sandwich-with sliced bananas, no less. A nice touch.

What’s not vintage diner fare is less likely to impress. (You wouldn’t expect a great pizza from a Chinese restaurant, would you?) The grilled marinated chicken breast was satisfactorily juicy and well cooked if a bit bland, served with overcooked broccoli and a boring rice pilaf. And the dry salmon steak with hollandaise was clearly overreaching on the part of the kitchen. (Actually, the best part of both meals was the delicious hot rolls that preceded them.)

When it comes to service at Club LT, there are as many ups and downs as a roller coaster. Unless you arrive early, lunch is barely controlled chaos. Recently, I sat and watched my malt melt while waiting for a straw. Looking around, I noticed I had a lot of company in patrons waiting for checks, change, water and soup. At night, the opposite is true; not long ago, the staff seemed so concerned about leaving that I was practically swept out of the dining room after I paid my check. (Technically, the restaurant was open for another hour.)

Such irritating service practices aside, Club LT captures our attention with its funky modern decor. For the most part, it also captures the spirit of an old-fashioned diner with its prices and reliable home-style fare.Tom Sietsema is on the staff of The Washington Post Food section.

Club LT: A Bit of the Little Tavern
by Phyllis C. Richman
Mar 4, 1988

DINER DAYS are here again, with meatloaf and mashed potatoes, milkshakes and mid-century lingo such as Wet Hen – a sauced and cheesed chicken sandwich, of course.

Club LT is the diner revisited, stretched across the top floor of The Shops at National Place mall rather than along a roadway. It combines the neon-and-formica look of a diner, though, with the burger-strong menu of the old Little Taverns, for which it is named. Add to the mixed metaphor such modern inventions as potato skins and Chocolate Chambord Cake, and you’ll see that the spirit is more authentic than the flesh.

It is a menu for hankerings from the good old days: Tuna melt and Greek salad, fried chicken and London broil are on the menu, and for kids there is even a peanut butter jelly club – with fries (ever seen pb&j with fries before?). Some are authentic in name only: the mashed potatoes are instant, and the gravy tastes like brown tinny liquid salt.

One modern lapse, though, is welcome, as well as astonishing: Under the appetizers are Three Little Tavern Burgers, “made the original way,” for $1.50. It’s the best bargain in the city. Not only does the waitress ask how you want your burgers done (the real Little Tavern never did that), the kitchen actually cooks them to your specifications.

The three burgers are bigger than the old LT originals – about two inches in diameter and nearly a half inch thick – and lightly formed by hand rather than machine, which makes them also better than any fast-food burgers on the market. They miss the old LT’s minced onions and pickle slices which add a flavor punch, but why nitpick when you are offered three little burgers of excellent caliber, each of which probably outweighs a single McDonald burger. Add a breezily friendly waitress and a decent cup of coffee, and Club LT could make its own place in diner history.

THE UNSPOKEN PRICE –

For years I have been complaining about restaurants where waiters don’t tell you the prices when they recite the specials, and recently many restaurants have begun to do so. Some still complain that it is undignified to mention prices. However, the most expensive restaurant in New York, The Quilted Giraffe, has managed to find a way around it. The menu is fixed-price, but a couple of dishes such as the Beggar’s Purses and foie gras have a supplemental charge. So when the waiter recites the specials he says something like, “with the same supplemental charge as the foie gras.” No Victorian lady ever went to greater lengths to circumlocute such delicate issues.

TRUTH IN ADVERTISING –

At the opposite end of the spectrum is the January/February advertising supplement by Museum & Arts magazine. Often advertising supplements look and read like normal editorial copy, with a tiny “Advertising” designation at the bottom. This culinary arts supplement, however, came right out front and headed its “Favorite Menus” sections as “Recommendations from our Advertisers.”

GARCON, YOUR BEST TABLE –

A reader sent a saying from his “Quote of the Day” calendar which I consider sage advice: “In a restaurant, choose a table near a waiter.”

Harry F. Duncan

Harry F. Duncan
February 19,1899 – April 17, 1992

Harry F. Duncan, 93, founder of the Little Tavern carryout chain here, died of cancer April 17 at his home in Bal Harbour, Fla. A resident of Washington for more than 60 years, he moved to his winter home in Bal Harbour a year ago.

Mr. Duncan began his take-out business, featuring small, buy-’em-by-the-bag “baby beef burgers” in St. Louis in 1924. Three years later he moved the business to Louisville, where, he was later to claim, he invented the cheeseburger and initiated the concept of a light hamburger bun. The cheeseburger concept spread rapidly, before he had a chance to patent it, he said in a 1973 interview.

After moving to Washington in 1928, Mr. Duncan began opening a series of white-and-green Little Tavern shops, some of which came to be local landmarks of near-historic status. Little Tavern hamburgers, greasily fragrant with onions and small enough to go down in a few bites, usually were sold in multiples.

“Club LTs,” as the small carry-out shops were known in teenage circles, were distinguished by the harshness of their lights, the demeanor of the grillmen and the occasional lingering scent of disinfectant. There were nearly 50 Little Taverns in the area by the era of World War II.

Mr. Duncan made a fortune selling tiny hamburgers, and also did well in car dealerships, real estate and a hotel in Bal Harbour. He sold the privately held Little Tavern chain, then numbering about 30, in 1981.

A native of Savannah, Mo., Mr. Duncan served in the Navy Reserve during World War I. He attended the University of Missouri and later received an honorary doctorate of public service from George Washington University.

He was honorary chairman of the board of directors of the Boys Club of Washington, and founder of a Boys Club in Silver Spring that bears his name. An honorary trustee of George Washington University and an honorary member of the university’s hospital staff, he endowed the main lobby of the hospital at Washington Circle NW, now called the Harry F. Duncan Pavilion.

Mr. Duncan also was a member of the Luther Rice Society, Columbia Country Club, the Kiwanis Club of Silver Spring and the Shriners.

Mr. Duncan’s marriages to Doris Duncan and Bette Hartz Kendall Duncan ended in divorce. Survivors include his wife, Anneliese Duncan of Bal Harbour, and a sister, Mabel Dray of Savannah. A daughter from his first marriage, Kathleen Duncan Engel, died in 1944.

Robert F. McFadden

R.F. McFadden, Little Tavern President, Dies
Aug 16, 1990

Robert F. McFadden, 83, the former president of Little Tavern Shops here, died of cancer Aug. 14 at Shady Grove Adventist Hospital.

Mr. McFadden, who lived in Potomac, was born in Savannah, Mo. He attended the University of Missouri, then came to Washington in the mid-1920s to attend Benjamin Franklin University. He graduated in 1926.

In the early 1930s, he opened the first Little Tavern Shop in Washington. The chain of hamburger shops had been started by a cousin in Louisville in 1927.

Mr. McFadden served in the Army during World War II, then returned to this area and his work at the Little Tavern Shops. He had opened 45 shops in the Washington-Baltimore area when he sold the business and retired in 1981.

He was a life member of Almas Temple of the Shrine and Congressional Country Club and a member of Potomac United Methodist Church.

Survivors include his wife of 39 years, Liesa McFadden of Potomac; four children, Robert F. McFadden Jr. of Bethesda, Michael D. McFadden of Germantown, Linda L. Stone of Darnestown and Thomas W. McFadden of Littleton, Colo.; and four grandchildren.

Little Little Tavern

I’m a bit unclear as to what the original function of these Little Tavern boxes was. Matchbooks? Business Cards? Toothpicks? They’re not very big, about 6-8″ long (I don’t have one in front of me and I can’t remember exactly). The windows and doors are printed on, but just about all the detailing is there.

They’re made of some kind of heavy duty early plastic, and are a miniature replica of one of the shops.
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Some have 20th Anniversary 1927-1947 script on the roof.
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Others have the standard “Buy ’em by the bag” slogan.
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Efford Anderson- Little Tavern

A followup on Efford Anderson, pictured here and I think also in this one.

February 29, 1972
Anderson, once aide in food chain

A mass of the ressurection for Efford E. Anderson, 75 year old retired bus driver and restaurant chain official, will be offered at 10 AM tomorrow at the Holy Cross Church, 105 East West Street.
Mr. Anderson died Sunday at the Greater Baltimore Medical Center, of cancer of the larynx.

Armistace turn-around

An employee of the Baltimore Transit company from 1920 to 1951, Mr. Anderson was an official with Little Tavern Shops, Inc. until 1962.
Mr. Anderson was a cook in the Army during World War I, stationed in Georgia, Maryland and New Jersey. He was on a troop ship bound for Europe when the Armistace was signed. The ship returned to the United States.
He was a member of the Disabled American Veteransl a 50-year member of the Loyal Order of Moose and a member of the Lost Chord Club, an organization sponsored by the American Cancer Society, which teaches speech to persons who have lost their vochal chords.

Special walnut cake

Mr. anderson’s favorite hobby was baking his special non-frosted walnut cake, for which he had developed his own recipe. He was also a gardener, who raised a variety of roses.
Mr. Anderson is survived by his wife, the former Maime C. Thuman; two daughters, Mrs. E. Melba Adams and Mrs. Rosemary Evans both of Baltimore county, two sisters, Mrs. Clora Gaddis, of Harford county, and Mrs. Pauline Little, of Dawson county, Ga., ten grandchildren and three great grandchildren.